Favorite drink of pirates and scallywags deserves some top-shelf respect.

Page 1 of 2 » Next

Call it rhum as they do in France, ron in Spanish-speaking countries, or by the more colorful moniker of Kill Devil (in part for its reputed ability to ward off evil spirits), but rum is enjoying a renaissance in America, the country that made this ancient drink the tipple of choice in pre-Revolutionary years. Part of the reason for this resurgence has more to do with the emergence of rich-tasting sipping rums than the popularity of Captain Jack Sparrow, although rum’s rich naval heritage does cloak it in an aura of Caribbean adventure. Back when men were men and unafraid to draw swords to settle bar tabs, islanders used rum as a bribe to keep pirate-deterring British warships lingering in harbors.

There are three types of rums, all made by distilling burnt sugar cane or molasses. Light rums are usually distilled in column stills and aged in steel tanks or uncharred barrels to preserve clarity. Gold rums are barrel-aged for a scant two to three years, imbuing them with a translucent yellow hue. Dark rums (best appreciated straight) are pot-distilled, like single malt scotch, and get their rich amber depths from aging in charred barrels. And for the darkest of the dark rums, molasses -- which comes from burnt sugar cane -- is sometimes added, thus bringing these heavier rums full circle. Here are five of the finest.

Pusser's 15 Year Old ($65)

This rum's name is a derivative of purser, a ship's warrant officer in charge of onboard provisions and handing out daily rations of rum to Royal Navy crew members (a 330-year-old tradition that ended July 31, 1970). Charles Tobias, an entrepreneurial yachtsman, recreated Pusser's Naval rum by purchasing the original recipe and 200-year-old wooden stills -- the only two left in the world. Several barrels were aged 15 years before bottling. This rum resonates with a musty toasted cinnamon and citrus elegance that dates from the Battle of Trafalgar.
Pairing: Cameroon-wrapped Vegas de Fonseca

Flor de Caña ($45–$72)

The name of this Nicaraguan rum translates into "flower of cane," appropriate for a distillery that started out as a sugar cane plantation in the western part of the country. Around since 1890, it is best known in Latin America, where it has won an astounding 72 medals in the past five years. We recommend both the floral-yet-robust 18-year-old Centenario Gold and the new Centenario 21, a full-bodied 15-year-old rum; when looking for a cigar to accompany either, only a Nicaraguan puro will do.
Pairing: 601 Blue

Plantation 1997 Panama ($27)

Most rums are blends of various ages, but Plantation -- created by Cognac Ferrand, one of the premier cognac distilleries in France -- is one of the few vintage dated rums. Moreover, each vintage comes from a different area, dramatically spotlighting the importance of a rum's terroir. Master distiller Fabien Levieux personally selects each vintage blend; the Plantation 1997 Panama is light in stature, with a touch of marzipan and lemons.
Pairing: Macanudo Vintage 2000

Mount Gay Extra Old ($37)

There's something to be said for being the oldest rum brand in the world. Mount Gay dates from 1703 and was named after Sir John Gay Alleyne, eminent caretaker at the distillery's estate in Barbados. Fittingly, Mount Gay Extra Old is a blend of both column and pot-still rums and made with pure island spring water -- embodying the complexities this island's rums are known for. These barrel-aged spirits range from 12 to 17 years in age, and the barrels used are smaller than usual, providing more wood contact for the rum, thus accelerating the aging process. As a result, the flavor is brimming with cherries and toasted oak, making it perfect for a mai tai or simply sipping straight.
Pairing: Arturo Fuente Hemingway

Santa Teresa 1796 ($46)

Venezuela may have its issues, but not when it comes to rum. Very close to Cuban dark rum in texture and taste, this spirit contains rums ranging from four to 35 years in age. But the real secret to its distinctively thick, smoky-citrus flavor lies in its creators' use of the Spanish sherry-style solera system, where a portion of crianza, or "mother rum" gently cascades down a four-barrel tier and always ends up as part of the final blend. The rums are also aged in French Limousin casks, which lend a faint but distinctive vanilla undercurrent.
Pairing: Cuban Romeo y Julieta Churchill

Page 1 of 2 » Next

Next article » José 'Pepin' Garcia: No Compromise for Success

Previous article « Voilà, Le Luxe Cigar Case